How to Clean Grout So It Looks New Again: A Pro’s Guide to Stains, Mould, Colour and Sealing
There are few household jobs as quietly demoralising as scrubbing tile grout. It’s the thin lines you barely notice when they’re clean and can’t stop seeing when they’re grey, patchy, or speckled with black.
The good news is that grout is more fixable than it looks. With the right cleaner, the right brush, and a little patience, you can bring those lines back to crisp, near-new brightness without wrecking your tiles.
What grout is, and why it looks dirty so fast
Grout is a cement-based filler designed to bond tiles and keep water out. It is intentionally porous, which makes it excellent at gripping tiles and frustratingly good at gripping dirt. Soap, body oils, spilt coffee, even tap water minerals creep into those pores and dull the surface.
Many people don’t realise that not all grout is the same. Cement-based grout stains easily but can be renewed and sealed; epoxy grout is far less porous and resists staining, but still needs proper cleaning. Natural stone tiles add another layer of caution, because acids that are harmless to ceramic can etch marble or limestone.
Prep first: diagnose your surface and protect yourself
Decide what you’re standing on. If your tiles are ceramic or porcelain, you can use a wider range of cleaners. If they’re natural stone such as marble, travertine or limestone, avoid vinegar, lemon and other acids, and lean on pH-neutral or mildly alkaline cleaners only.
Open windows, wear gloves, and test any cleaner in a discreet corner. Grout can vary by age and colour, so a quick patch test avoids nasty surprises.
The quick routine clean most people skip
Grout responds brilliantly to a simple, regular wash. Mix warm water with a few drops of mild washing-up liquid and scrub along the lines with a stiff nylon grout brush or an old toothbrush. Work in short sections so you don’t let dirty water dry back into the pores.
Rinse with clean water and towel-dry the joints. Drying seems like a faff, but it’s the trick that stops residues from wicking back up and leaving a faint film.
For kitchens, think alkaline and dwell time
Kitchen grout often looks greasy rather than grey. A mildly alkaline cleaner lifts cooking films better than anything else. Mix a teaspoon of washing-up liquid or a capful of an all-purpose cleaner into a bowl of very warm water, apply generously, and give it five minutes to soften the grime before you scrub.
If stains linger, make a paste of baking soda and water, about three parts soda to one part water. Spread it on the lines, leave for 10 minutes, then scrub and rinse very well. The paste is gently abrasive and excellent for tan coffee or curry shadows.
For bathrooms, target soap scum and moisture
Bathroom grout faces soap, shampoo and constant damp. A solution of warm water and a little washing-up liquid works for routine mess, but you’ll get further by pairing it with a rinse of white vinegar on ceramic or porcelain tiles. Use a 1:1 mix of vinegar and water, let it sit for a few minutes after washing, then rinse again with clean water and dry.
Avoid vinegar on natural stone. If your tiles are marble or limestone, use a pH-neutral bathroom cleaner and skip the acid step. The goal is to remove scum without etching the surface around it.
Mould and mildew: choose peroxide or diluted bleach
Those pinprick black spots? That’s mildew taking hold. For light to moderate growth, hydrogen peroxide (3%) is more effective than many expect. Spray it directly on dry grout, leave for 10 minutes so it can fizz into the pores, then scrub and rinse. Peroxide both lifts the stain and helps neutralise spores.
For stubborn black mould, a diluted household bleach can be appropriate on white cement grout and ceramic tiles. Mix one part standard bleach to ten parts water, apply carefully with ventilation, allow up to 10 minutes of contact, then scrub and rinse twice. Never mix bleach with vinegar or ammonia, and never use it on coloured grout, natural stone, or epoxy grout. If in doubt, choose peroxide; it’s safer for more surfaces.
Deep stains and the case for oxygen bleach
If your grout has gone uniformly grey, oxygen bleach is the quiet hero. Sold as a powder that activates in warm water, it’s less harsh than chlorine and brilliant on organic stains. Dissolve a tablespoon in a litre of warm water, flood the grout lines, and let it dwell for 10 to 15 minutes before scrubbing and rinsing.
The key is to keep the lines wet during that dwell. Reapply solution rather than letting it dry. This is where many cleaning attempts fail: scrubbing too soon and giving up before the chemistry has time to work.
The right brush, pressure and technique
Grout needs firmness, not fury. Choose a stiff nylon brush with bristles that match the groove width. Work the brush at a shallow angle along the joint rather than across it. This drives cleaner into the pores rather than flicking it onto the tile surface.
Avoid metal brushes and harsh abrasives. They can gouge grout and create more places for dirt to cling. If you have epoxy grout, which feels smoother and less porous, lean on gentle detergents and a soft brush; heavy abrasives will scuff the surface.
When steam cleaning makes sense
A handheld steam cleaner can be impressive on greasy film and soap scum, especially on ceramic and porcelain. The heat softens residues and helps lift them out of the pores without chemicals. Move slowly so the steam has time to work, and always wipe as you go to remove loosened grime.
Skip steam on cracked grout, newly sealed areas, or soft natural stone. If you see water beading in the joint rather than soaking in, there may be sealer present, and steam could force moisture behind tiles. In that case, stick to surface cleaning and allow extra drying time.
Dry, then lock it in: sealing makes the difference
Freshly cleaned grout looks best when it stays that way. Once the lines are fully dry, apply a penetrating grout sealer on cement-based grout to slow future staining. Most products want the grout bone-dry, which can take 24 to 48 hours after a deep clean. Plan for that window.
Choose a clear, breathable sealer and apply with a small brush or applicator bottle, wiping stray drips off tiles quickly. Two thin coats often outperform one heavy coat. Epoxy grout does not need sealing; it’s already highly stain-resistant.
Colour-seal to reset the clock
If your grout has uneven shading you can’t shift, colour-sealing is a surprisingly simple reset. It’s essentially a tinted sealer that adds a uniform colour while protecting the surface. Clean thoroughly, let it dry completely, then brush on the colour-seal and buff away excess on the tiles before it cures.
This step hides stubborn ghosting and gives you a crisp, consistent look. It also buys you time between deep cleans because stains have a harder time sinking in.
How to keep it clean with minimal effort
A little prevention is worth a lot of scrubbing. In showers, a quick squeegee and a towel wipe after the last use of the day removes the film that feeds mould. In kitchens, wipe splashes quickly and do a weekly wash of grout lines with warm soapy water before they grey.
Ventilation matters more than most people think. Run an extractor fan during and after hot showers, and leave doors open to reduce lingering moisture. Dry grout doesn’t mould easily.
Common mistakes to avoid
Rushing the dwell time is the number one error. Cleaners need minutes, not seconds, to break bonds with the dirt. Flood the lines, wait, then scrub.
Overusing acids is the second. Vinegar has its place on ceramic and porcelain, but it will etch natural stone and can weaken cement grout if used neat and often. Keep acids dilute and occasional, and choose oxygen bleach or peroxide for deep cleans instead.
When to repair rather than just clean
If grout is crumbling or cracked, no cleaner will fix it. Pick out loose sections with a grout saw, vacuum the dust, and regrout the gap. New grout bonds best to clean, dry tile edges, so do the messy part first and the beauty clean after the repair has cured.
If lines have sunk below the tile edge and catch dirt, topping up with fresh grout or using a colour-seal to fill micro-pits can dramatically reduce future staining. Sometimes “looking new again” is as much about sound joints as sparkling ones.
A final word on patience and pay-off
Grout gives up its stains slowly and then, all at once. The combination of the right cleaner for the mess, a proper dwell, and a steady brush produces results that feel unfairly satisfying. Once you’ve brought the lines back, a seal and a quick weekly wipe will keep them that way far longer than you might expect.
Cleaner, brighter grout lifts the whole room. It’s not glamorous, but it is one of the rare domestic jobs where an hour’s methodical work can make a space look freshly renovated.
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This is the first grout guide that actually explains the why, not just the how. Thank you!
Quick question: is oxygen bleach safe for colored grout or will it lighten it over time?
The “dwell time” reminder was the missing piece for me. Patience pays off.
My bathroom has marble tiles. Just to confirm: no vinegar at all, right?
If the grout was sealed last year, why avoid steam? What’s the risk exactly?
“Quietly demoralising” made me laugh because it’s so true and this was super helpful.
I tried peroxide and it fizzed like soda on the mildew spots 🙂
Does sealing make grout look darker or glossy? I prefer a matte finish.
Not sure about a 10:1 bleach ratio—feels strong. I usually go weaker and repeat.
Anyone else find baking soda paste a tad abrasive on glossy tiles, or did I scrub too hard?
Really appreciate the safety reminders about never mixing bleach and vinegar. People forget!
How often should a penetrating sealer be reapplied in a busy shower—annually?
I followed this to the letter and my kitchen splashback looks brand new! 😀
Pro tip from my lazy side: an electric toothbrush head works wonders on thin joints.
Is oxygen bleach fundamentally different from chlorine bleach in terms of residue and fumes?
My grout lines are a bit sunken. Would a color-seal fill micro-pits or do I need new grout?
Grout is basically a dirt magnet with commitment issues. Now I know how to break up with it.
I’m in a hard-water area; any tricks to prevent mineral haze beyond towel-drying?
The step to towel-dry afterwards changed everything for me. No more hazy film. Thanks!
After steam cleaning, how long should I wait before applying sealer?
Love that you called out epoxy grout not needing sealing—so many guides miss that.
Tried this on travertine and skipped vinegar; the pH-neutral cleaner did the job nicely.
I once mixed bleach and vinegar—bad ideaa. Glad you put that warning front and center.
Can hydrogen peroxide fade dark grey grout if left too long?
The “firmness, not fury” line made me smile and scrub smarter 🙂
Any brand recommendations for a breathable penetrating sealer that doesn’t leave a sheen?
My grout keeps re-staining in two days. Ventilation is horrid. Halp.